Enchanted Mommy

My Fireplace Is Ready For Halloween!

Happy early Halloween!  I’m trying to keep life as on-track as possible for the girls right now.  I’m 39, yes 39, weeks pregnant today. We just had so much fun decorating the fireplace!  In case you don’t remember my fireplace before we white washed it, here is that post.  You might notice that we added a little molding around the old thin mantle (thank you, dad).


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How to Paint and Antique your Kitchen Cabinets

My parents had an accidental house fire recently sparked from their fire place that spread through their living room last fall.  Although the fire damage was minimal, the smoke damage was terrible.  They had to get their entire house scrubbed from top to bottom and repainted.

During this cleaning process their kitchen cabinets were damaged.  The wood finish was stripped in several places.

I decided to be brave and offer to repaint them… I couldn’t make them any worse after all! Ha.  After a lot of research I finally got around to the task a few weeks ago.  They turned out GREAT!  They look brand new and way better than they looked even before the fire.

I regret that I forgot to take a picture before the cabinet doors were removed, but here is the before pic with the doors already off.

PicMonkey Collage.jpg

And now for a few of the After pics….





Awesome right!  It changes the entire look of the kitchen!  Did I mention that the entire project cost less than $300.  That included all the paint/primer, glaze, supplies, and hardware.

So here are the basics of what I did:

1.  Remove all the cabinet doors and hardware.  I numbered all the doors using post it notes first.  I put one post it note on the back of the cabinet and one with a matching number where the cabinet door was removed.  This saved me from having to puzzle through figuring out where each door went when I was finished.

2.  The hardware was spray painted with a metallic spray paint after we soaked them in vinegar and water to clean them.   It took three coats of spray paint.

3.  I sanded down any visible blemishes and wiped everything clean.  Part of the island and even some of the long sides of the cabinets is not real wood and more like thin particle board.  I sanded this down as well as possible to really get it scuffed up a bit so that the primer would stick better (actually, I delegated this part to my Dad since I hate sanding!).

4.  Priming time!  I started with priming the inside of the cabinet doors so that I would be doing the outside part that everyone will see last.  I figured that I would rather have the back scraped from being turned over than the front.  I didn’t work on the front of the cabinets until 24hrs after the back was completely done (primed and painted).  I only did one coat of primer.  I recommend Zinsser Oil based primer with stain blocker.  Just a warning… it is strong smelling!

IMG_6825 (1)-1


One coat of primer applied

One coat of primer applied

5.  I then did two coats of paint.  I used an off white color and got the Benjamin Moore Active paint in the satin finish.  Satin so it is easy to clean food and spills and the the Benjamin Moore Active brand because my research showed me that this paint hold ups really well on cabinets and has a really nice finish to it making a poly coat unnecessary.  I was wary of doing a poly coat on white cabinets as it often yellows over time.  After waiting 24hrs from the last paint coat on the back of the cabinet doors I turned them over primed and then painted two coats.  Oh, I almost forgot… I added Floetrol to my paint each time I put pain in the roller pan.  This slows down your drying time which will decrease any brush or roller marks on your cabinets.

6.  After waiting another 24hrs, I used Valsar antiquing glaze to antique the drawers, cabinet doors, and trim.  I use the Valspar gel because it is already mixed and ready; no need to add a thing to it.  This is really the fun part.  Use a foam brush and paint a thin coat over the desired area (I really only focused on the crevices as I wanted it to be a very light antique look), then using a lint free rag, wipe it all off.  Some of the glaze will remain giving it an antique look.  You really can’t screw this one up since you just keep wiping it off if you want less and repeat it if you want it more heavy.  I keep a wet rag nearby also so that I can wipe parts even cleaner if they look smudged.




7.  I waited another 24hrs before putting the cabinet doors back on and installing the knobs and handles.  The easiest way to install the knobs and handles is to make a template of the corner of the cabinet door and of the shape of your drawers.  Then measure exactly where you want your knobs to go on the template and mark them.  Use this template on each drawer and door so that the knobs and handles are all in the same spot.  I know they sell these templates at home depot, but it was simple enough to make my own out of construction paper.  You will need a power drill and an electric screw driver for this step.

The island without handles/knobs

The island without handles/knobs


The island with handles and knobs

The island with handles and knobs

All done!  This was a very tedious task and cannot be rushed.  If you decide to do this, make sure that you have enough time to give to the task.  I recommend at least a full week.  The more you have to rush each step, the sloppier your work will be.



DIY: Easiest Way to Paint Stripes!

I had been wanting to do a striped room for a while, but was too intimated.  My sister-in-law did her nursery in stripes and it finally motivated me enough to give it a try.  It was surprisingly easier than I thought it would be.

Looks great right!

All done and looks great!  I get so many compliments on it!

All done and looks great! I get so many compliments on it!

Supplies Needed:
Latex paint
Roller/paint brush
Painter’s tape
Chalk line tool
Ruler or measuring tape

I did 12 inch stripes just to make the measuring simple.  The most obnoxious part is the taping.

First I used a 12 inch ruler and marked every 12 inches on both sides of each wall. Then I used a chalk line tool to mark the stripes.

Basically, you put this dry chalk in the tool and shake it up.  Then you use a thumb tac to tac the end of the chalk line to your first 12 inch mark on one side of the wall.  Pull the chalk string out until it is the length of the wall and hold the other end tight at the other 12 inch mark you made on the other side of the wall.  Make sure the chalk line is wound tight.  Then just use your free hand and snap the line up.  It will snap back down and leave an easy to see line across your wall.  Repeat this for all your lines.

Here is one wall after making chalk lines.

Here is one wall after making chalk lines.

This is what the chalk line tool looks like.  It is sold with the chalk and costs around $10.

This is what the chalk line tool looks like. It is sold with the chalk and costs around $10.

Once I had my chalk lines I put painters tape along the lines, making sure that the stripes I would be painting had the painters tape on the outside of the lines and not the inside.  I also put x marks with painters tape on the stripes that I would not be painting just to make it easier not to make any mistakes.

All taped up and ready to paint!

All taped up and ready to paint!

Painting time!  I was very careful to make sure I used the roller very lightly near the tape so that paint wouldn’t seep under the tape.  You can also push a credit card end along the painters tape to seal it to the wall better before you start painting.  Make sure you peel your painters tape off the wall before your paint is dry.   If you wait until it is too dry be very carefully peeling it off as it can start to tear the dried paint off with it.

All done and looks great!  I get so many compliments on it!

All done and looks great! I get so many compliments on it!


Here is the other side of the room... I know bad lighting. Sorry.

Here is the other side of the room… I know bad lighting in this pic. Sorry.



Refinished Antiqued Night Stand

I already took of the handles of the top drawer before remembering to take a picture.

I already took off the handles of the top drawer before remembering to take a picture.

This was a really fun project!  It was one of my first pieces to refinish when we moved to Florida.  I recommend starting with something small to work on for your first project.

night stand

This is my Mother-In-Laws 30plus year old night stand.  They gave it to us several years ago with a matching armoire.  It might look outdated, but it is very good quality and still in great conditions.  I love how it turned out!

1.  First I sanded the top of the night stand to remove all the finish.  I also sanded down the tops of the drawers and took off their handles.  I painted the bottom  white and technically didn’t need to sand the drawer tops as much as I did, but I wanted it to be nice and smooth.  You really only need to sand places that have scratches or places that you are going to use a wood stain on.  I also spray painted the handles with a silver metallic spray paint.

night stand2

2.  After this, I cleaned off all the dust and put on two coats of primer (I recommend Zinsser oil based primer) to the bottom and started my first coat of stain on the top.  Make sure you wait until everything is completely dry before giving 2nd coats.  I actually did 3 coats of wood stain on the top to get it as dark as I wanted it to be.  I used the stain color called Kona.

night stand3

3.  Next, I put two coats of regular white latex paint.   I also mixed my paint with a little floetrol.  This helps slow down the drying process to decrease the visibility of brush strokes.

4.  Next was the fun part!  I used Valspar pre mixed antiquing glaze from Lowes.  It is very easy to use.  Paint it on with a foam brush, then use a lint free rag to wipe it off.  I actually used the antiquating glaze on the handles as well.  You can put on as much or as little as you want to get the desired effect you are going for.

5.  Finally, I did three coats of a water based poly (I recommend Minwax  polycrylic).  I also waited a good 24hrs before doing the first poly coat.  It is not recommend to to do more than 2 coats of poly in a 24hr period.

nightstand 4

I also waited 48hrs before putting my nightstand to normal use.

Valentine’s Day Crafts

Since we’ve had so much snow and below freezing weather, we’ve been going nuts stir crazy and gotten ourselves into a lot of crafts.  I’ve always loved Valentine’s Day.  So, my 4 year old loves crafts and my 2 year old loves animals so I decided to do a mix of the two.  I found lots of heart crafts that are animals.  I don’t really think I need to do any tutorials because they are all pretty self explanatory.






We’ve also done a few other crafts:


We made frames for each of the grandmas! $1 frames plus heart stickers from Target. They each painted one!


They had fun using stickers to write “love” stuff on them!


Rice krispie treats with red food coloring and used a heart cookie cutter! Sticks, bags and ribbon were purchased at A.C. Moore.


These were wooden hearts for $.39 at A.C. Moore and we just painted them and used red sharpie!

Lastly, I put this on Facebook yesterday.  It seemed to be a big hit!


Use a toilet paper roll to make a heart!

Happy Happy Valentine’s Day!

A Fun Valentine Card

My 4 year old is in the Gummy Bear class.  We went with the “beary special” theme.  She has worked long and hard to make enough for her class.  I think they turned out pretty cute!



I got the clear wrappers from a craft store in the cake section (they are really for cake pops).

Check out some other great ideas here!

Good Will Steals for DIY projects!

We have a really nice Good Will thrift store near us.  I can usually stop by and find some treasures for really good prices!  I recently found a sturdy desk for $5 and a queen size head board for $5 also.Nice and sturdy desk, but needs a little work!

Nice sturdy desk great for a kids room!  Just needs a little touch up work!

Nice sturdy desk great for a kids room! Just needs a little touch up work!


Here is the $5 head board I found!  Can't beat that price!

Here is the $5 head board I found! Can’t beat that price!


The desk is very sturdy, but was a little beat up on the outside.  I used some Elmer’s wood filler to fill some of the scratches and holes.  Then I used two coats of primer and two coats of paint.  I recommend Zinsser primer.

For the head board I had to use a spray paint primer and paint in order to get all the lattice work parts evenly.  Then I used regular latex paint for the smooth parts of the head board.

After the spray paint primer coat.

After the spray paint primer coat.

I used paint and primer I already had so all in all these two projects cost $10 total!  Not bad!

Looks great in my 8yr old's skate board bedroom!

Looks great in my 8yr old’s skate board bedroom!


Here is how the head board looks all set up!

Here is how the head board looks all set up!


Pumpkin Carving – Halloween Is This Week!

Every holiday comes too fast for me.  I feel like I never get to do all that I want with the girls before it is over.  This year I wanted to let them choose what they wanted on their pumpkins.

I picked up some pretty good pumpkins at our grocery store (Harris Teeter).  They were pretty big and they were 2/$10.00 – I didn’t have to pay by the pound.

We let the girls pick what they wanted on their pumpkin.  My five month old obviously couldn’t pick, so husband just drew and carved (see middle pumpkin).  My four year old wanted Hello Kitty and my two year old wanted Dora.  I’d say they turned out pretty good.


In case you’re wondering, we did the obvious (obvious that we never thought to do before) and googled “Dora pumpkin stencil”.  It took my husband to the Nick Jr. site that has a TON of characters.  He also just googled “Hello Kitty pumpkin stencil” and Ella chose the one she liked best.

Here’s Ella with her stencil:


What you need for the stencil is:

  • pumpkin
  • pumpkin carver, my neighbor let us borrow her electric one.
  • Big spoon for all the guts
  • stencil of your choice
  • lots of tape
  • candle (I used votive ones)

After we carved them, we noticed a lot of light wasn’t shining through, so I had to go back and kind of thin out the inside lining of the pumpkin and make the lines a little wider.  I’m not sure if all pumpkins are really thick, but ours seemed to be.

I will say that it was pretty tedious, but I was really happy with how cute they turned out.  In the end, husband and I did all the work, while these two ran around and looked cute.


This was a no brainer pic.

Here’s a close-up!


Happy Halloween!

Easy DIY Fall Wreath


I love making wreaths.  Every since my first wreath two Christmas’s ago, I just can’t stop!  They are so easy and inexpensive.  I give them as teacher gifts for the holidays as well.

This fall wreath cost me about $5 to make.  The wreath part itself was on sale for $2.99 at Michaels.  Then you just pick out whatever accessories you want from the sale holiday isle.  They are usually range from 50 cents to $2 depending on how extravagant you get them.

I didn’t use any Halloween stuff this time, although there were plenty of Halloween items for those interested.  I wanted to be able to use the wreath through November as well so I kept it simple.

I just use hot glue and put it together how I want.  Looks great every time!



Here are a few we have made in the past:

PicMonkey Collage2 PicMonkey Collage3


DIY: Refinished Kitchen Table and Chairs

Remember when I refinished my buffet?  I ended up redoing the kitchen table and chairs to match!  This is a set we have had for quite a while now and has survived three moves and three children.

It was pretty beat up so I was really anxious to refinish it once we got settled here in Florida.

The chairs were the worst because they have spindles and took a lot of extra time to paint.  I am pretty sure I will never do chairs again!

Before and After

Before and After


This is how beat up it was!

This is how beat up it was!

Fabulous.  You can almost see the matching buffet to the right that I posted about last month.

Fabulous. You can almost see the matching buffet to the right that I posted about last month.


Oil based primer (I recommend Zinsser)
Sand paper and electric sander (sanding between coats and parts your are staining)
latex paint (I used a satin finish)
water based poly (I recommend Minwax Polycrylic)
Elmer’s wood filler (to fill in any grooves or scrapes)
Wood stain (I used the darkest stain I could find, Kona)

1.  Start by repairing any major scrapes or dents with Elmer’s wood filler.  I used a lot of this to fill in the natural grooves the table came with.  I hated them… food was always getting stuck in them.


2.  Start sanding!  Use an electric sander to sand off the tops of the chairs and the top of the table.  Make sure you get all the finish off.  Do not over sand unless you are sure your table is solid wood.  I did this and could see part of the particle board show through in one part.

All sanded and wiped clean!

All sanded and wiped clean!

3.  Clean all the dust and start priming the table and chair legs.  I did two coats.  Lightly sand any drips between coats.

4.  Ready to paint!  It takes two coats of latex paint on the table and chair legs.  Work slowly and carefully on the spindles to avoid clumps and drips.  Sand any drips between coats.  I also like to add some floetrol to my paint.  This helps condition your wood and also slows down the drying time to minimize viewable brush marks.

Primed on the bottom and first coat of stain done on the top

Primed on the bottom and first coat of stain done on the top

5.  Stain the top of the table and chairs.  Use painters tape as needed.  I did three coats of stain to get the color as dark as I wanted.  I used a stain called Kona.

6.  After 24 hrs I started the poly coats.  Make sure the poly is completely dry between coats.  I did three coats of poly.  Sand between coats as needed with a very fine grit sandpaper.

Make sure you wait 24 to 48 hrs before putting your table and chairs into regular use.  It turned out great!  We have been using it for a few months now and love it!

Turned out perfect!  I can't tell which chair was the one that was so beat up in picture above.  They all look perfect now.

Turned out perfect! I can’t tell which chair was the one that was so beat up in picture above. They all look perfect now.