Enchanted Mommy

Refinished Antiqued Night Stand

I already took of the handles of the top drawer before remembering to take a picture.

I already took off the handles of the top drawer before remembering to take a picture.

This was a really fun project!  It was one of my first pieces to refinish when we moved to Florida.  I recommend starting with something small to work on for your first project.

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This is my Mother-In-Laws 30plus year old night stand.  They gave it to us several years ago with a matching armoire.  It might look outdated, but it is very good quality and still in great conditions.  I love how it turned out!

1.  First I sanded the top of the night stand to remove all the finish.  I also sanded down the tops of the drawers and took off their handles.  I painted the bottom  white and technically didn’t need to sand the drawer tops as much as I did, but I wanted it to be nice and smooth.  You really only need to sand places that have scratches or places that you are going to use a wood stain on.  I also spray painted the handles with a silver metallic spray paint.

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2.  After this, I cleaned off all the dust and put on two coats of primer (I recommend Zinsser oil based primer) to the bottom and started my first coat of stain on the top.  Make sure you wait until everything is completely dry before giving 2nd coats.  I actually did 3 coats of wood stain on the top to get it as dark as I wanted it to be.  I used the stain color called Kona.

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3.  Next, I put two coats of regular white latex paint.   I also mixed my paint with a little floetrol.  This helps slow down the drying process to decrease the visibility of brush strokes.

4.  Next was the fun part!  I used Valspar pre mixed antiquing glaze from Lowes.  It is very easy to use.  Paint it on with a foam brush, then use a lint free rag to wipe it off.  I actually used the antiquating glaze on the handles as well.  You can put on as much or as little as you want to get the desired effect you are going for.

5.  Finally, I did three coats of a water based poly (I recommend Minwax  polycrylic).  I also waited a good 24hrs before doing the first poly coat.  It is not recommend to to do more than 2 coats of poly in a 24hr period.

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I also waited 48hrs before putting my nightstand to normal use.

Valentine’s Day Crafts

Since we’ve had so much snow and below freezing weather, we’ve been going nuts stir crazy and gotten ourselves into a lot of crafts.  I’ve always loved Valentine’s Day.  So, my 4 year old loves crafts and my 2 year old loves animals so I decided to do a mix of the two.  I found lots of heart crafts that are animals.  I don’t really think I need to do any tutorials because they are all pretty self explanatory.

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We’ve also done a few other crafts:

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We made frames for each of the grandmas! $1 frames plus heart stickers from Target. They each painted one!

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They had fun using stickers to write “love” stuff on them!

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Rice krispie treats with red food coloring and used a heart cookie cutter! Sticks, bags and ribbon were purchased at A.C. Moore.

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These were wooden hearts for $.39 at A.C. Moore and we just painted them and used red sharpie!

Lastly, I put this on Facebook yesterday.  It seemed to be a big hit!

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Use a toilet paper roll to make a heart!

Happy Happy Valentine’s Day!

A Fun Valentine Card

My 4 year old is in the Gummy Bear class.  We went with the “beary special” theme.  She has worked long and hard to make enough for her class.  I think they turned out pretty cute!

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I got the clear wrappers from a craft store in the cake section (they are really for cake pops).

Check out some other great ideas here!

Good Will Steals for DIY projects!

We have a really nice Good Will thrift store near us.  I can usually stop by and find some treasures for really good prices!  I recently found a sturdy desk for $5 and a queen size head board for $5 also.Nice and sturdy desk, but needs a little work!

Nice sturdy desk great for a kids room!  Just needs a little touch up work!

Nice sturdy desk great for a kids room! Just needs a little touch up work!

 

Here is the $5 head board I found!  Can't beat that price!

Here is the $5 head board I found! Can’t beat that price!

 

The desk is very sturdy, but was a little beat up on the outside.  I used some Elmer’s wood filler to fill some of the scratches and holes.  Then I used two coats of primer and two coats of paint.  I recommend Zinsser primer.

For the head board I had to use a spray paint primer and paint in order to get all the lattice work parts evenly.  Then I used regular latex paint for the smooth parts of the head board.

After the spray paint primer coat.

After the spray paint primer coat.

I used paint and primer I already had so all in all these two projects cost $10 total!  Not bad!

Looks great in my 8yr old's skate board bedroom!

Looks great in my 8yr old’s skate board bedroom!

 

Here is how the head board looks all set up!

Here is how the head board looks all set up!

 

Pumpkin Carving – Halloween Is This Week!

Every holiday comes too fast for me.  I feel like I never get to do all that I want with the girls before it is over.  This year I wanted to let them choose what they wanted on their pumpkins.

I picked up some pretty good pumpkins at our grocery store (Harris Teeter).  They were pretty big and they were 2/$10.00 – I didn’t have to pay by the pound.

We let the girls pick what they wanted on their pumpkin.  My five month old obviously couldn’t pick, so husband just drew and carved (see middle pumpkin).  My four year old wanted Hello Kitty and my two year old wanted Dora.  I’d say they turned out pretty good.

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In case you’re wondering, we did the obvious (obvious that we never thought to do before) and googled “Dora pumpkin stencil”.  It took my husband to the Nick Jr. site that has a TON of characters.  He also just googled “Hello Kitty pumpkin stencil” and Ella chose the one she liked best.

Here’s Ella with her stencil:

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What you need for the stencil is:

  • pumpkin
  • pumpkin carver, my neighbor let us borrow her electric one.
  • Big spoon for all the guts
  • stencil of your choice
  • lots of tape
  • candle (I used votive ones)

After we carved them, we noticed a lot of light wasn’t shining through, so I had to go back and kind of thin out the inside lining of the pumpkin and make the lines a little wider.  I’m not sure if all pumpkins are really thick, but ours seemed to be.

I will say that it was pretty tedious, but I was really happy with how cute they turned out.  In the end, husband and I did all the work, while these two ran around and looked cute.

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This was a no brainer pic.

Here’s a close-up!

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Happy Halloween!

Easy DIY Fall Wreath

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I love making wreaths.  Every since my first wreath two Christmas’s ago, I just can’t stop!  They are so easy and inexpensive.  I give them as teacher gifts for the holidays as well.

This fall wreath cost me about $5 to make.  The wreath part itself was on sale for $2.99 at Michaels.  Then you just pick out whatever accessories you want from the sale holiday isle.  They are usually range from 50 cents to $2 depending on how extravagant you get them.

I didn’t use any Halloween stuff this time, although there were plenty of Halloween items for those interested.  I wanted to be able to use the wreath through November as well so I kept it simple.

I just use hot glue and put it together how I want.  Looks great every time!

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Here are a few we have made in the past:

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DIY: Refinished Kitchen Table and Chairs

Remember when I refinished my buffet?  I ended up redoing the kitchen table and chairs to match!  This is a set we have had for quite a while now and has survived three moves and three children.

It was pretty beat up so I was really anxious to refinish it once we got settled here in Florida.

The chairs were the worst because they have spindles and took a lot of extra time to paint.  I am pretty sure I will never do chairs again!

Before and After

Before and After

 

This is how beat up it was!

This is how beat up it was!

Fabulous.  You can almost see the matching buffet to the right that I posted about last month.

Fabulous. You can almost see the matching buffet to the right that I posted about last month.

Supplies:

Oil based primer (I recommend Zinsser)
Sand paper and electric sander (sanding between coats and parts your are staining)
latex paint (I used a satin finish)
water based poly (I recommend Minwax Polycrylic)
Elmer’s wood filler (to fill in any grooves or scrapes)
Wood stain (I used the darkest stain I could find, Kona)

1.  Start by repairing any major scrapes or dents with Elmer’s wood filler.  I used a lot of this to fill in the natural grooves the table came with.  I hated them… food was always getting stuck in them.

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2.  Start sanding!  Use an electric sander to sand off the tops of the chairs and the top of the table.  Make sure you get all the finish off.  Do not over sand unless you are sure your table is solid wood.  I did this and could see part of the particle board show through in one part.

All sanded and wiped clean!

All sanded and wiped clean!

3.  Clean all the dust and start priming the table and chair legs.  I did two coats.  Lightly sand any drips between coats.

4.  Ready to paint!  It takes two coats of latex paint on the table and chair legs.  Work slowly and carefully on the spindles to avoid clumps and drips.  Sand any drips between coats.  I also like to add some floetrol to my paint.  This helps condition your wood and also slows down the drying time to minimize viewable brush marks.

Primed on the bottom and first coat of stain done on the top

Primed on the bottom and first coat of stain done on the top

5.  Stain the top of the table and chairs.  Use painters tape as needed.  I did three coats of stain to get the color as dark as I wanted.  I used a stain called Kona.

6.  After 24 hrs I started the poly coats.  Make sure the poly is completely dry between coats.  I did three coats of poly.  Sand between coats as needed with a very fine grit sandpaper.

Make sure you wait 24 to 48 hrs before putting your table and chairs into regular use.  It turned out great!  We have been using it for a few months now and love it!

Turned out perfect!  I can't tell which chair was the one that was so beat up in picture above.  They all look perfect now.

Turned out perfect! I can’t tell which chair was the one that was so beat up in picture above. They all look perfect now.

DIY: How to Paint a Rug!

Okay so I am picking out things for the new house and came across this very reasonably priced handmade natural fiber jute rug from overstock.com.  It looked perfect under my dining rom table… until my dog got sick and puked on it.  Did you know it is IMPOSSIBLE to clean a jute rug???  I didn’t, but found out very quickly!

Mistake number 1 was using carpet cleaner on it.  This just bleached the rug and made it worse.  Sadly, even using a too much water can discolor a jute rug.  So lame!  I would have never bought this rug had I taken the time to do some research on it… not with a house with three active boys and two dogs!

Here is the bleached out spots made from carpet cleaner after the dog puked here.

Here is the bleached out spots made from carpet cleaner after the dog puked here.

So the rug was ruined and I had a chance to experiment with it.  I have heard of other people painting rugs and started googling.  I found a lot of good blog posts online where people updated there jute or sisal rugs by painting them..  Apparently it is pretty easy to paint a rug!  It also looks great!  I used the site jimmychoosonthetreadmill.com for my motivation.  I also like this rug painting post on natalme.com.

So easy!  The only supplies your really need are some foam bushes, a gallon of regular latex paint, and some painters tape.  I painted mine right in the house after the kids went to bed.  I just put a tarp underneath it.  This rug has a thick plastic bottom and didn’t even soak through to the tarp, but the tarp made me feel better just in case.

So here is the rug before I did anything to it.  This is a close up of the texture it has.

So here is the rug before I did anything to it. This is a close up of the texture it has.

I decided on a Chevron pattern and made a triangle from construction paper to make sure the chevron strips were exact.  Then I outlined the triangle back and forth with painters tape.

Notice my pink construction paper triangle.  I used this to measure and make sure my chevron strips were uniform.

Notice my pink construction paper triangle. I used this to measure and make sure my chevron strips were uniform.

After I had the design all mapped out on my rug, I painted! I used a soft foam brush and regular indoor latex paint, just like you would use to paint your walls.  Make sure to get a pack of foam brushes as I went through 3 or 4 on this project.

I got the paint from Walmart.  Did you know that they have pre mixed colors for 50 – 75% off?  It is hit or miss on what colors they have available, but I was happy to find this shade of grey for $4.

I didn’t want to spend a lot of money on this project since it was my first time painting a rug and I wasn’t sure of the outcome.  I am now ready to admit that I like the rug even better than before!  Considering I bought a $4 gallon of paint and a $4 roll of painters tape, I basically redesigned this rug fabulously for less than $10.

After the paint is dry, peel up your painters tape to see the masterpiece!

A close up of the rug after the painters tape was pulled off.

A close up of the rug after the painters tape was pulled off.

 

Looks awesome right!

Looks awesome right!

Guests come over and are shocked when I tell them the rug didn’t come this way.  It looks great and I feel so talented! ha! I might even want to try this out on another rug!

Some of the other posts I found on this told me to sand my rug with an electric sander when it was done to take away the crispiness the paint can leave.  I did not do this since this is a jute rug and it already has a tough texture anyway.  I can see how this would be a necessary step on a smoother, less textured rug.

DIY White Buffet makeover

Again, with the beat up furniture from the move!  Ha.  I am slowly moving from project to project as I get settled in the new house.  I got this buffet about 6 years ago.  It was one of my first pieces of furniture I was able to buy after graduating from college and getting married.

I sold a lot of my stuff before the move, but I always loved this piece.  It got really beat up in the move… maybe because we pack all our stuff ourselves, or maybe because it drove from Virginia to Florida in an open trailer secured with ropes and bungee cords.  Oops.

Oh well… I actually LOVE the new look.  It fits in much better with the colors of my house.

This is the buffet before.  With the black knobs and handles removed already.

This is the buffet before. With the black knobs and handles removed already.

 

Close up of some of the worst dings.

Close up of some of the worst dings.

I started out by sanding all of the little dings until they were nice and smooth.  After that I used Furniture Refinisher with steel wool to give me a good start on getting the top finish removed.  I wanted to stain the top so I really needed all the finish completely gone.

This had a really thick finish so I used the Furniture Refinisher to keep me from sanding my life away.  Make sure you use gloves if you decide to use this product for your project.

To use this product you poor a little in a bucket, then soak up your steel wool scrubber in it and continually rub in a circular motion.  Its gooey and you will use up an entire package of steel wool.

To use this product you poor a little in a bucket, then soak up your steel wool scrubber in it and continually rub in a circular motion. Its gooey and you will use up an entire package of steel wool.  It definitely does its job.

 

HEre is what it looks like after using the Furniture Refinisher.  You can tell it still has a little finish on it, but it is looking pretty good.

Here is what it looks like after using the Furniture Refinisher. You can tell it still has a little finish on it, but it is looking pretty good.  I also have a coat of primer on in this picture.  I would not recommend doing this until you are sure you don’t have to go back and sand… saves you time cleaning and dusting before starting to paint again.

Then, I took an electric sander and used a medium grain sand paper to take off the rest of the finish.  After I dusted off the rest of the mess from sanding, I was ready to put on another coat of primer.

I like to use Zinsser Oil Based Primer from Lowes.  Sand lightly between all coats of primer and paint to remove any clumps or paint drips.

So here it is with two coats of primer and the top sanded down.  You can see the difference the extra sanding makes after using the Furniture Refinisher.  You really need to get all original finish off you plan on staining.

So here it is with two coats of primer, two coats of latex paint, and the top sanded down. You can see the difference the extra sanding makes after using the Furniture Refinisher. You really need to get all original finish off if you plan on staining.

Next, I put on two coats of white latex paint in a satin finish.  I added a little floetrol to my latex paint.  This helps condition the wood and slows down the drying time so that there are less visible brush strokes.

I used a a dark stain called Kona on the top of the buffet.  I actually did 3 coats of this stain to get it as dark as I wanted it to be.  You can always get it a shade or two lighter using less coats.  I also sanded between coats to make sure it was extra smooth.

After 24 hrs of drying I started the poly coats.  I like to use a water based poly in the satin finish.  The oil based poly’s will yellow over time.  This might not show on a darker piece, but would be terrible on this white.  I recommend Minwax Polycrylic.  Again, make sure to sand between coats to make it extra smooth.

Here it is in the garage with the hardware finally back on.  I like to wait 24 to 48 hrs before putting any of my pieces to use.

Here it is in the garage with the hardware finally back on. I like to wait 24 to 48 hrs before putting any of my pieces to use.

 

Finally, its in the house and looking fabulous!  Still need to figure out how I want to dress it up, but I am very happy with how it turned out!

Finally, its in the house and looking fabulous! Still need to figure out how I want to dress it up, but I am very happy with how it turned out!  Bad lighting here and the pic really doesn’t do it justice for how beautiful it turned out.

 

A quick side by side of before and after for you.

A quick side by side of before and after I decided to add at the last minute.  Please excuse the cell phone shot. :)

 

 

Check out my antique turquoise armoire I did as a recent guest post here.

 

DIY Burlap and Cork Board Frames

We are finally settled into the house enough for me to start doing some crafts!  Yay!  I hope to never ever move again.  It is so much work and its seems that all my furniture gets a little bit more beat up with each move.

Anyway, you might have seen this project floating around pinterest from shopcraftwarehouse.blogspot.com.  I love it!  I love how easy it is to change out the pictures!  I have such a hard time choosing between pics anyway so this display makes it super easy to switch out picutres.

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The original blogger used spray paint, magnets and metal sheets, but I didn’t want to deal with that so I used cork board under mine so that I could pin up the pictures instead of put them up with a magnet.  It just seemed a lot simpler.

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SUPPLIES

  • 3 Square frames (I used 10 x 10 with 8 x 8 photos, but 12 x 12 would look great too)
  • Wood letter of your last name (found at any craft store)
  • Acrylic paint color of your choice (I used beige)
  • Cork board roll or squares (found at any craft store or on Amazon for $5.94)
  • Burlap roll (found at any craft store)
  • Hot glue gun

*** Paint your letter.  Carefully remove glass from all three frames.  Cut cork into squares to fit your frame and glue to inside cardboard backing of the frame.  Cut burlap to fit the frames you picked out and glue the corners unto the previously glued cork board squares.  Glue your wood letter to the middle of own of the cork squares.  Put your frames back together again and use any thumb tac to put up your square photos.

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